Day 271, Thursday March 20th
We get the call at about 8:30 on the VHF from Lucy that
there is supposed to be a car available for them to rent ready for 10:00. They had arranged on Monday for a car rental
pickup on Thursday morning for 24 hours to ensure they could get their son Jim
to the airport for 6:30 a.m. All week
they have been assured a car, but it was iffy until this morning whether it
would actually fall into place. Lucy had
mentioned to us if the car was large enough we could join them for the Thursday
field trip. We get the next call at 9:45
that yes indeed there was an old beat up van that has the left hand steering
wheel (same as Canada), but for left
lane driving (like England), with no
fuel in it available, so we head to shore with our bathing suits, cameras,
snacks, etc. ready for a day of car vacationing and glad to be included.
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A trusty well used Mini Van - 230,000 miles on it |
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Lucy and Dawson in the Van, note the surf board |
We are happy it is a van as Jim has his surfboard loaded in
and although it blocks one of the windows, it fits very easily. We head north as we all want to see the Glass
window which is a narrow bridge connecting North Eleuthera with Central
Eleuthera and provides view to both the east, the Atlantic ocean, and to the
west the Exuma Sound. It is an
interesting stop as the ocean swells are pounding the shore even though the
winds are not high. Originally there was
a natural rock arch connecting the north and central but a big storm, and years
of waves bashing it took it away. Now
you can drive across it whereas the old natural bridge I doubt any cars could
use it. We are all suitably impressed.
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Glass window, Exuma Sound on the left and Atlantic Ocean on the right |
Next stop was to pick up propane at Upper Bogue a few miles
north, then on to the water taxi terminal over to Harbour Island. Harbour Island is a famous tourist stop for
the wealthy. It is dangerous areas for
sailing unless you pay a pilot to help you weave your way in between the coral
heads. We don’t think we will get there
by sail so we want to at least have a look across the bay and view the island
from shore.
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Patio at the Lizard Cafe |
We then head south looking for a lunch stop and come upon
Lizard Cafe which has organic foods and is an excellent choice for some healthy
eating at a reasonable price. Next stop
is Surfers Beach where Jim wants to do some surfing. We drop Jim off at the crest of the hill as
the lower road is too bad for driving.
Rainstorms have caused huge ruts in the road ready to swallow the
van. The vans shocks are not very good
either. The 4 adults then head over to a
local farm which is only a few miles away. The name of the farm is the EIO Farm (Eluethera Island Organic Farm). We chat to the owner, however he has nothing for sale as he has to fill
cooperative orders (weekly family orders) tomorrow and he only has sufficient
to meet those needs.
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Entrance to EIO farm, with old silos |
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Bananas with protective plastic bags (prevents sun and salt burns) |
It is a nice chat
to him though about the state of farming in Eleuthera. He tells us also that the cattle farm just
south of us got their cows by rounding up the wild cows from the Rock Sound
area that were left over from the cattle hey days of the 50’s and 60’s. Eluethera has the most agriculture that we have seen in the Bahamas with small holders across the island. In the 50 there was a large cattle operation which had concrete silos built all along the highway. The project failed as they required more water then was available. An error that the owner of EIO will not repeat.
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World class surf beach |
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The Surf Shack, Jim is in the middle |
We head back to the beach area and walk down to the surfers
area. Jim has been out once to ride some
waves, but currently back on shore. No
one is actually surfing as the waves are much larger than usual. Some of the sand has also been taken away
leaving some nasty sharp coral on the shoreline. We find a great shady spot to sit and enjoy
the view. Jim decides to head out for
one more hurrah, Lucy watches with concern and we all get our cameras out. Just watching Jim make his way to the outer
surf is interesting as the waves just crash over him as he pushes his way out
on his board. We had done surfing
lessons in Peru and found it a lot of work just getting out to the outer waves
and our waves were much smaller. Finally
Jim is just a dot at the outer reef.
Everyone on shore is watching him go up and down as he assesses the
waves and picks the one he wants to ride.
He often disappears in the swells also.
After about 15 minutes he picks a wave.
They come in sets and he has chosen one in the middle of a set and
manages to ride for a minute or some, but gets sent crashing. He surfaces and paddles a bit back to his
starting point and we watch him sitting on his board assessing waves again for
about another 15 minutes. This time Jim
catches a good one and manages a full ride.
It is very cool to watch him change directions and control the
board. After this ride which probably
only lasts a bit more than a minute he paddles back in to shore. Even this is tricky as landing with the
crashing waves and undertows requires paying careful attention to the water. This beach is well know in the surfing community, having hosted world surfing championships in the past.
The five of us then head back to the car, and head south
towards Governors Harbour. We do stop at
one more farm to buy a few tomatoes.
Governors Harbour is a very pretty town.
We had missed sailing to it as its anchor holding and protection is not
great and the weather was not suitable so we sailed on past. Governors Harbour is a quick stop as it is
getting late and we did not bring lighting for our dinghy rides back to our
motherships. We do want to see the pink
sand beaches that the west coast brags about.
We once again head down some roads that are not in the best nick,
however we proceed slowly. Eventually we
find a pink tinged beach so we can now tick that off our list of things to
see. It is now almost 7 so we point the
car homeward and get back to our boats before darkness.
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Selvie on the Pink Beach at Governors Harbour |
A quick dinner and then we have a picture downloading
session as Dawson has captured a few good surfing photos of Jim we want to
share. Managing pictures takes quite a
while because with digital technology we take so many, and have the opportunity
to then engineer them and then many options for presenting them such as movies,
slide shows adding music etc. We could
work full time just managing photos. We
do manage to copy the pictures of the last couple of days onto a flash drive
and Jim and John pop over for a visit.
We do not manage to fit in the traditional kings cribbage
game, although we do manage our evening coffee then off to bed. Amazing how we can sleep given we fill up on
coffee just an hour before bedtime. We
must have no stress or worries on our minds.
Cheers
Julie and Dawson