Thursday 20 February 2014

Day 240 Monday, February 17th A car tour of the south of Long Island

Day 240 Monday, February 17th A car tour of the south of Long Island

Yes we wake up to another beautiful day although somewhat breezy.   The winds are out of the East North East at around 20 knots but Thompson Bay is a perfect location for this wind direction.  We get the day going early, coffee and a listen to the Chris Parker Weather show.

Sue and Dave of Sans Cles c/w buns
After the weather Dave and Sue are coming over to complete the planning/organization for the car rental.  At 8:30 they are over and we are sitting down enjoying the fresh cinnamon buns Sue baked complete with icing and a coffee of freshly ground coffee.  We give Fox Garage a call and make arrangements to pick up the car at the government dock at 1 pm.  The next big question is do we head to the north or south of the island today.  We decide we will seek some advice from Mike the owner of Island Breeze so will head in around noon to give us some time to talk to him.  We also decide that as the winds are to stay high that we will move the boats closer to the shore of Long Island to make the dinghy trip a little better as we can ride in the lee of the island longer.  We shuffle the boats in to shore, pack our stuff and have a quick lunch.  Today’s lunch was again excellent and is fish tacos, made with our Mahi Mahi catch of last week.

Inside the family van already for the trip
Noon finds us at Island Breeze, Sue and Dave head into to find Mike, owner of Island Breeze, and Julie and Dawson heads over to the Ministry of Tourism building just up the road to seek some advice.  Right at 1:00 our car shows up just after we get our info, you have to like the timing.  We are in a 1997 Honda Odyssey Van, we ask how many cars they have and the answer is 6 with all of them being rented.  To us it looks like the Odyssey is the family vehicle and with the high demand for vehicles it is put into the rental fleet.  Based on the advice from Mike and people at the Bahamian Tourism we head south on our 1st car adventure in the Bahamas.

Julie, Sue and Dave overlooking the Atlantic
Driving in the Bahamas is on the right so as Sue is English she gets the nod at driving.  After about 10 minutes of driving we decide to take the next road which heads off to the Atlantic shore.   The next road leads to a partially developed vacation home estate.  These are quite common in the Bahamas, someone has a dream, raises some cash, gets a road and maybe 1 or two house and a couple more started and that is it.  We notice goat droppings at the stop so we move into a game of “spot the goat” with the winner getting 3 dollars in prize money.  The game is on for about 10 mins making for an exciting 5 miles with Dave being the 1st to spot a goat.  He is a natural at the game.
View from partial finished vacation home

We now figure it is time to take a drive to the the West side of the island and head down a likely looking road, which featured a sign for the Seaside Bar and Grill.  We arrive to find that the Seaside Bar and Grill is a deck over the water with sitting for 10.  We enjoy a nice cold Kalik with the owners Jerry and his sister Karen.  The West part of the island is all bonefish country, featuring shallows up to a mile off shore. 
Jerry bar and grill, bone fishing boat on left
Unfortunately Jerry asks if any of us know computers and Dawson makes the mistake of offering up Dave who was in IT in his earlier life.  Sorry Dave.  Dave spends this stop trying to get the volume on Jerry’s computer working while we enjoy the view and get some local knowledge from Jerry and Karen.  Based on their advice, we plan our next two stops, the local Museum in Dunmore followed by the blue hole at Dean.





The museum is good, similar to so many “local” museums we have been to.
Julie and Sue at Dunmore Museum
From Dunmore it is only a short drive to Deans Blue Hole, the deepest blue hole in the world at 673 feet.  It is definitely worth the stop.  Dawson and Dave take a swim.  Unfortunately  none of us brought a diving mask. The hole is about 300’ in diameter and is in a bay off the Atlantic, well sheltered from the open ocean. There is a diving platform in the center of the hole which is currently in use as there is a film shoot underway.  Dawson talks to one of the divers and finds out she is a world record holder in free diving as well as 3 time US national Champion.  She also points out a fellow on the platform who is the current world record holder.  Free diving is one of the extreme sports where the competitors have taken something fun, diving for lobsters etc, to the extreme in our humble opinion.  They now have competitions where you ride a steel weight as deep as possible take a tag (which gives the depth you obtain) and then come back to surface where you have to answer a skill testing question and do a physical act like touch your nose.  Doesn't sound like fun to me.  On the east side of the hole we spot a rope ladder that allows you to climb to the rim of the hole for a jump.  Dawson 1 st tries it but gives up thinking that he will get badly scrathed by the limestone, but Dave makes the climb so peer pressure forces Dawson up, without  injury.  The view down on the blue hole is particularly good and the jump even better.


Looking east across Dean Blue Hole
Dive platform, individual on left is the world record holder 
Dawson climbing up rim of Blue Hole

Dave at rim taking in the view

Dawson in mid Jump

After our swim we head back to the car for the drive to our next stop, the Spires of Church of Sts. Peter and Paul located in Clarence Town.  Here you are allowed to climb to the top of twin towers of the church which overlooks the Clarence Town harbour.  It is an excellent stop; the spires are about 4’ in diameter with 3 wooden ladders leading to the top viewing platform.  The view from the top is excellent with the platform allowing you to walk around a full 360 degrees.  Julie and Sue head up one spire and Dave and Dawson up the other.
View of Sts Peter and Paul Church
Julie and Sue at top of the girl's spire

View from top of spire

Dave and Dawson on Boys spire note that the cross is missing



After this exhilarating stop it is time for a beer so we head over to the harbour.  Our 1st choice is a stop at the Rowdy Boy Bar and Grill but after a quick peek inside we head over to the marina for a beer
The bar with a great name, but we still ended up at the marina
overlooking the harbour.  It is a good choice as we meet another set of cruisers who are at anchor in the harbour and get some info on the local services and anchorages.  Some excitement had happened here about 5 days before, with two boats suffering lighting strikes during the passages of the cold front.  We had watched the lighting from George Town and had heard on the Chris Parker show about the hits but it is sad to hear the story first hand.  The boat we are talking to did not get hit but was anchored next to the boats which were hit.  Neither of the boats hit were holed by the strike but they did lose all their electronics and suffer major damage to their electrical systems.  This is the risk of traveling around with your own 60’ lighting rod.

It is now getting to be late and we get back in the car for the last 20 mile drive to the south end of the island.  The south part of the island is much poorer than what we had seen previously with a number of ruins and shacks en route.  All of a sudden we are at the end of the road as the road just ends at a set of steps.
End of the road 
 Dave jumps out and runs over to the end of the road and picks up the stop sign which is laying on the ground for the next group of tourists.  There is access to the West Beach which provides an excellent spot to watch the sun go down.  The beach has been prepared for visitors having a gazebo, a cooking area, seating and some recently planted palm trees, a good stop for sundowners on the South Island tour.
Sunset at the south end of Long Island


From here it is back north, we are now on the look out for a spot for dinner.  We are looking for a good local restaurant and we find it at Max Conch Salad Bar and Grill.  We enjoy an excellent meal of Conch, Grouper and Plantain.  Max comes over to ensure we are well taken care of and we get the history of the restaurant.   Max describes how it all started.  He use to be a fisherman and whenever they were stuck in an anchorage due to weather, the crew would gather the conch and he would prepare the salad for the crew, and one fellow told him he should open a conch salad bar, he describes it as a hobby gone bad.  From 4 chairs serving beers and conch salad he now has about 50 seats and offers a full menu.
We are finished dinner around 8 and it is time to get back to the boat.  

By 8:30 we are in the dinghies heading out to the fleet of anchored sailboats.  We both pick out our boats without issues (in the dark it can be challenging) and are on-board by 9.

A cup of coffee, a view of the days pictures and we are in bed by 10.

An Excellent day of Adventure
Cheers

Dawson and Julie

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